“Fashion wardrobe – 20 levels of the fashion godfather” (part 1)(reprinted-Good article sharing)

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“Fashion wardrobe – 20 levels of the fashion godfather” (part 1)

Good article sharing

The book recommended today is about the history of fashion, through the in-depth interpretation of 20 categories of clothing, to help readers have a deeper understanding of each of our daily clothing items.

Why learn about the history of western fashion?
When we buy clothes, we tend to judge them from a single point of view, whether they look good or not.
This judgment will change as you get older. Many people can’t buy the clothes they like all the time, sometimes they don’t like them after wearing them a few times, even if they like them now.
I have read a lot of people who arrange their books and always mention the word “heart”, which is too sentimental. If I can learn more about the history of fashion and the meaning of each item.
By exploring the meaning and history of clothes, you’ll be able to see your cluttered wardrobe in many ways.

Item 1: underwear

In 1939, there was a movie called gone with the wind, which was a time when women were obsessed with slender, slender waists, so there was a scene in which scarlett desperately tried to keep her slim waist in a strappy corset even when she was pregnant.

By the 1960s, after the clothing revolution, most people’s need for such restrictive clothing had disappeared.
And for modern women, many of the reasons for abandoning body shapers are to pursue freedom and freedom from constraints.
But in fact, when you’re signing up for a big contract or going to a party, you need to get in shape to look your best.
As americans look down on shapewear, their waistlines are growing. Less and less confident about your body, the more you want to wear baggy clothes.
Many people take it for granted that in times when women were more restrained, corsetry was the tightest, while in times when women were more free, corset should be the most loose-fitting.
Ironically, though, tight shirts and skinny jeans are almost as restrictive as shapewear, and you don’t look as good in them.
Therefore, the author’s opinion is:
When you want to show off your confidence, poise, and grace in a particular situation, you should buy yourself a shapely undergarment.
Today’s shapewear comes in many shapes and sizes: it could be a pair of tights, a tunic, a long undershirt, or anything else designed for a particular area.
Modern body suits are also more comfortable and more breathable than their tights.
The cheapest shapewear, the spandex tube-shaped garment you’ll be hard-pressed to get into.
But a well-constructed bodysuit doesn’t distort your body, it only gives you curves.


Item 2: t-shirts

Looking around, almost everyone, no matter their age or size, wears a T-shirt, especially one made of a mixture of cotton and polyester.

n the 1940s, however, no one dared to wear a T-shirt in public.
The U.S. navy used white cotton t-shirts as their official underwear in 1913. Since then, mass-produced white t-shirts have quickly become popular as men’s underwear.
Later, in the 1934 film one night, when popular male star clark gable played a role in the film, he conveyed to the public that he was not wearing a white T-shirt underwear, but was wearing a shirt directly.

At that moment, the American man answered his call and thought it was cool and masculine to dress like that.
Add in the great depression, and no one will complain about buying less.
But by world war ii, millions of American men had won the war wearing t-shirts.
Returning soldiers still wear the standard T-shirt in their daily lives, so ordinary people are starting to imitate it again.
In the 1955 movie “silent revolt,” the theme of t-shirts being bad boys continued.
Wearing jeans and a white T-shirt sends a message of teenage discontent.
“Just in time to go to school in a T-shirt in 1969 would have been asked to go home,” one American writer recalled in his all-american book.
By the 1960s, undershirts and tie-dye fabrics were also in vogue for both men and women.
At this point, the T-shirt symbolizes raw sexual attraction and the liberation of women.
A T-shirt advertisement from the 1970s says: “this kind of clothes liberates the upper body of americans.
But the T-shirt is definitely not suitable for any occasion, any environment.
Unless paired with something else, t-shirts are strictly casual, and expensive and cheap are not much different.
How to tell if a T-shirt fits?
It’s about finding the right shoulder.
The sleeve should be sewn right on your shoulder, not a foot closer to your neck or a foot wider than your shoulder.
Both men and women should ditch the traditional round collar and opt for a v-neck or boat T-shirt.
For this item, the author’s final opinion is:
Before you wear a T-shirt, it’s best to remind yourself that, not so long ago, a T-shirt was just underwear.


Item 3: jeans

Few clothing items are as ubiquitous as jeans, and almost everyone has at least one.

For the author, the most obsessed jeans: low-rise jeans.
The low-waisted pants, which only became popular in the 1990s, came from Alexander McQueen, a famous designer, who showed what he called “bunst” at his fashion show.
His design philosophy: “he wanted to extend the curve of his body through low-cut pants. He believes that the sexiest part of everyone, male or female, is the end of the spine, not the hips.
If a woman’s hips are noticeably wider than her waist, the authors recommend wearing low-cut jeans, but often get the answer no.
The authors recommend wearing low-cut jeans for the following reasons:
If you let the waistline of your pants fit your waistline, then the hips don’t fit.
If you make the bottoms of your pants fit your hips, the fabric around your waist will be extra, making you look sloppy.
Many people worry that low-rise jeans will expose the belly of proud flesh, but in fact, when you wear low-rise jeans, it is necessary to wear a top that covers the belly.
The effect of the length of your top is to make it impossible for outsiders to see that you’re wearing low-cut jeans.
The author’s comment on the jeans style is:
Wearing skinny jeans is not appropriate in any situation.
Because many men and women who wear skinny jeans are like those who wear denim leggings.
The other two points are:
Straight leg jeans are often the thinnest.
The darker the jeans are, the more versatile they are.


Item 4: skirt

If a dress is going to fit, it should at least be done just right in many places:
Shoulders, chest, waist and hips.
So, choosing a dress that fits is actually very difficult, compare to choosing two pieces that are separated from one another.
By blending together, you can not only fit the clothes, but also match different styles.

If you have a skirt, you can change it as your waistline changes, but if you have a dress that doesn’t fit, you can’t change it.
There are many ways to classify skirts. The methods provided in the book are simple and fall into two categories:
Drape and cut.
The author suggests that when you’re tidying up your wardrobe, divide the dress into these two categories.
A drape is a flowing, hippy, wraparound Helen dress.
All over Europe, various variations have been more or less in vogue for some time since the first drape dress appeared in the 13th century.
All clothing structures are made with shoulder straps, belts, or jewelry.
In ancient Greece and Rome, the fabric of the shoulder was usually attached with a needle.
Among the many styles of Helen dress, one of the author’s favorite was Diane von furstenberg’s printed wrap dress.
In the 1970s, it became a new uniform choice for working women.
And it’s still very popular, and the reason is that this kind of dress, no matter what your body, will fit perfectly in a wrap dress.
The author suggests:
Every woman should buy a few dressy wrap skirts.
All it takes is a wrap dress and a pair of high heels — a standard outfit that can go with a regular wallet — to attend a business party or go on a dinner date.
A close-fitting drape dress can be as comfortable as an oversize skirt.
And the cut, it’s sewing, it’s structured, it’s lacing, it’s sculpting it’s cleopatra.
And this dress has a long history.
In 51 BC, princess cleopatra of Egypt succeeded to the throne when she was just 17 years old.
At the time, Rome was preparing to devour her kingdom, but she used her beauty and power to negotiate with Caesar and mark Antony. Her clothes were close-fitting, not drapey, and had been cut.
From about the first century AD, pendants dominated the fashion industry for centuries.
From the time of ancient Egypt to the middle ages, garment workers throughout the western world have more or less suspended the production of tailored clothing.
For a long time, clothes were almost always hanging and slippery;
But when structured clothing comes back, it comes back in force, with the exception of a few cases where it dominated fashion until the 1920s, when designers freed women from tight corsets.
What’s the secret to wearing a tailored dress?
Proportion and fit.
As a result, many designers who are good at tailoring have studied either architecture or sculpture.


Item 5:  pants and shorts

The shaggy, pocket-sized capri pants, known as “split pants,” are among the worst clothing items in America today.
The reason: these pants won’t look good on anyone.
The author thinks it is so popular in America because many people don’t care where the hem stays as long as the waist and hips are appropriate.
However, it is the length of the hem that makes the wearer look shorter, fatter and more slovenly than expected.
But the capri pants of the 1960s fit perfectly.
A designer named Sonia DE linat is credited as the inventor of the capri pants, which she introduced in 1948 and named after her favorite vacation spot, the Italian island of capri.

In the 1950s and 1960s, they became more popular than ever as people rushed to emulate their favorite stars.
Today, capri pants are mostly shapeless and drab.
For men, from the middle ages to the 17th century, men wore tights and breeches.
From the late 14th to the early 16th century, the term “” breeches” “refers specifically to the upper half of a pair of tights that contain” “breeches” “and” “stockings.” ”
After that, the colors and fabrics of the breeches are very different from the rest of the leggings.
The breeches look a bit like men’s pant or capri.
Today, however, men often have large, spare pockets on the sides of capri pants.
These pockets make no sense when you don’t have anything in them.
When you put things in, they make the legs look thick again.
Harem pants, on the other hand, have a crotch that looks, to the writer, like a diaper.
The author’s view is:
For both men and women, the best length for pants is usually about an inch, or 2.5 centimeters, above the knee.
Above all, they should fit.
Women with long waists may be the only ones who can look good in high-waisted shorts.
Sometimes people wear high-waisted shorts to disguise their waistlines, but that hardly works – in fact, it does the opposite.
If you have a large waist, you should wear shorts (or trousers) with a lower waist and a top that covers your belt to hide it.


Item 6: skirt

For a long time, the tightness and length of the skirt have been a symbol of women’s, and even men’s, social status.
For a long time, it wasn’t so much men wearing trousers and women wearing skirts as it was people who had to work hard and people who could hang around wearing skirts.
The more difficult it is to walk, the more it shows that the wearer’s position can keep him from working.

The length of a skirt has many meanings, but generally speaking, nowadays, the shorter the skirt, the younger the woman wearing it.
In other words, short skirts are not sexy per se and long skirts are not lazy per se.
Now we think short skirts are sexy because now young women are considered sexy.
Long skirts predominate in most Oriental dress.
In the west, in fact, designers in the 1920s lengthened the skirt and then shortened it.
Since then, the skirt length has never really been dragged, except for formal wear and the occasional hipster craze of the ’70s.
Miniskirts can be very glamorous — a-line dresses look great on many women, as do pencil skirts — and are often more glamorous than MIDI skirts.
MIDI skirts are back in fashion, but they often reach the fattest part of the calf – a very unflattering part.
Maxi dresses are also popular, but they look lazy.
Some people like to wear padded skirts, but if you don’t have a body to pull off, and if you don’t wear a bodice, you might look like you’ve been swallowed up by a fabric balloon.


Author: coffee
Link: https://www.jianshu.com/p/f057af7acdee
Source: Jane book
The copyright of the short book belongs to the author, any form of reprint please contact the author to obtain authorization and indicate the source.

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